I took an entire day off work yesterday (well, almost), and the family cruised over to Schoodic Point in Maggie, the Mazda.
On the way home we stopped at an intriguing smoked fish shop we hadn't seen before, called Grindstone Neck of Maine.
Our luck was in.
That was obvious from the moment we met Roger F. Billings, the bristly white-mustachioed co-founder, who wore a long cotton overcoat with his name embroidered on it, the sort clean-room scientists wear.
Roger gave us a tour of the facility, which he and his partner built about 2 1/2 years ago.
Turns out it's an extraordinarily efficient raw materials-through-shipping factory, designed by Roger based on his years in manufacturing, but informed by his partners' expertise as one of Maine's best gourmet chefs.
And it's all of perhaps 4,000 square feet big...
The building was once a house, and backs up onto a berm, which keeps the smokeroom particularly cool, an initial advantage.
Raw material deliveries arrive on the south side, from which the fresh fish is moved into a couple of ten-foot square refrigerated lockers, one of which, according to Roger,
can take 500 pounds of fish down 100 degrees in 3 hours..
The central room is the smokeroom, dominated by a gleaming silver metal smoker with a red-lit control panel attached. The smoker was designed by a NASA engineer, according to Mr. Billings, and is fed by two rolling carts, each of which can hold 17 trays of fish.
The smoker has a 'positive' and a 'negative' side, which specifies air blown in from seventeen rows of vents, or air sucked out from vents on the north side. The design insures absolutely even distribution of cold smoke across the trays.
Turns out that 'cold', and 'humidity', are key to successful smoking. The wrong measure of either means fish that cannot, as Roger indicated,
...be wrapped straight out of the package around an asparagus stem.
Grindstone's fish can, of course, without dissembling...
The smoker is fed by a funnel into which finely chipped wood is fed. Roger sources all his wood from Milwaukee, to which he quickly adds,
Why Milwaukee when we're in Maine, you ask? Well, the only source for
HACCP-approved wood is in Milwaukee. We tried 19 other sources first. That matters because it's the only way to be guaranteed that the chips don't include any oil from the saw blades, and don't include any bark.
Ah-ha.
HACCP refers to the FDA's Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point inspection process, vetting that facilities are indeed doing what they say. Implemented 30 years ago by NASA to monitor the astronaut's food, it's along the lines of a (not-voluntary) Federal Six Sigma program... Grindstone has to monitor 19 things to comply...
Roger uses cherry wood for some smoking, which means he doesn't have to add sugar.
From the smoker, the fish are moved into the slicing and packaging room. The packaging side (on the North end of the building, with quick access to egress, and to the storage locker whose glass-front opens onto the retail part of the establishment) is dominated by the cutting machine, whose blades are so sharp that it costs $600 to sharpen each one. The warning images all over the machine are .... graphic. Fine machinery = thinner slicing which, combined with G's smoker, means efficiency while still delighting chefs worldwide.
The 'plant' could produce up to 15,000 pounds per week -- but the owners actively manage volume down, even as their web-business is starting to take-off. Remember the asparagus-wrapping...
As if all this wasn't enough, Roger gave us his Finnan Haddie recipe (this recipe source calls it Hockey Night Seafood, even though Denver University's hockey team did beat the University of Maine for the 2004 NCAA title -- but I digress...) for use with his smoked haddock. Think cream-based baking until the halibut's about ready to flake, while a mess o' cubed veggies are al dente'd on the burner next door. Then all brought together for ten minutes at 350 degrees ...
With a crisp Chardonnay, perhaps.
Roger is delightful -- visit the Grindstone Neck website or call him toll-free at 866 831 8734 and 'talk to a real live person.'
And marvel at America's entrepreunerial wonderfulness...